There are no guarantees with silicone - it is almost impossible to remove. Unfortunately, silicone contaminants, often from dusting sprays, do not become apparent until a new finish is applied and generally cannot be removed from the surface, only moved around and possibly sealed - a bane of the refinishing industry.

You need to power clean the existing finish and put on some type of barrier coat:

1. Power clean the surface by scrubbing with a strong detergent such as Spic and Span and warm water combination with a gray Scotch-Brite pad. After that, clean with denatured alcohol full strength.
   
   How to Power Prep Existing High Use Finishes for Stain or Paint here.
    
2. Apply 3 coats of dewaxed shellac. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly.
    
3. Then cross your fingers and test, test, test your entire finishing schedule in a small area before proceeding with the entire piece.

In most cases, you will need to strip and sand, but even then there is no guarantee of success. If the silicone has gotten into the wood through cracks in the old finish, you may not be able to get it all removed. 

Protect yourself in custom refinishing contracts with a clause similar to this: 

We cannot warrant finishes over an existing piece of furniture. If products containing silicone (such as dusting sprays), oil soaps or waxes have been previously used on the piece, they may contaminate a new finish and prevent adhesion. In these situations, it is best to strip and sand the entire piece. Occasionally, a previous wax finish or silicone may be impossible to completely remove.

________ (Initials) I acknowledge that this piece has never been waxed/polished with a silicone-based dusting spray or cleaned with oil soaps. 

________ (Initial) I have no knowledge of previous cleaning products used but realize that they may have been applied by previous owners.

There is no easy solution to this problem. General Finishes Milk Paint has strong adhesion properties but there are several reasons this finish could fail:

1. The cabinets were not prep cleaned and sanded properly. Sanding and cleaning are an essential part of any refinishing process. Sanding lightly with the correct sandpaper grit will help clean and smooth the surface, but it will also abrade the previous finish which gives the new paint something to grip onto. Product may not adhere properly to a surface that is un-sanded or that is over-sanded (making the surface too smooth).
   
   In most cases, you can use a 220 sanding pad to scuff the surface and clean with a 50|50 mix of water and denatured alcohol.
    
2. The surface was contaminated with a dusting spray that contained silicone. Silicone is usually impossible to remove. You can try scrubbing the surface with a strong detergent such as Spic and Span and warm water combination using a gray Scotchbrite pad. After that clean with denatured alcohol full strength.
   
   In most cases, you need to strip and sand, but there is no guarantee of success. Test a small area first.
    
3. The surface was contaminated with a previous wax finish. Wax is also difficult or impossible to remove. Nothing adheres well to wax, and once you use it the wood grain can become contaminated. The wax can penetrate the wood, making future paint or stain finishes or touch-ups difficult or impossible. Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products or mineral spirits, the risk of a failure in re-coating over a wax finish is very high.
    
4. The surface was contaminated with an oil based soap.
5. A lack of compatibility with the deglosser.
6. A lack of compatibility with another manufacturer's top coat.

The most likely suspect is contamination. If any wax or silicone-based product has been used on the original surface, adhesion problems such as bubbling and chipping can be expected.

You could try spot sanding then repainting the chipped areas but that rarely is a good solution - we think the problem will continue to occur.

We recommend getting the cabinets into a paintable condition by doing the following:

1. Sand back all the new paint and cleaning with a high strength detergent such as Spic and Span mixed with warm water. Rinse thoroughly and let dry.
    
2. Prep sand with a 220-grit sanding PAD - do not use a finer grit or the new paint won't hold.
    
3. Scrub with a Scotch-Brite Pad and a 50\50 mix of denatured alcohol and water. When preparing any surface we highly recommend using a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water instead of commercial cleaning solutions.
   
   The mix is more effective because it has a higher alcohol content, you can get denatured alcohol locally, and it is cheaper. Many commercial cleaning solutions have extremely high VOCs while denatured alcohol is much lower.
   
   Furthermore, the 50/50 mix does not have salt in it. The salt in commercial cleaning solutions could linger in the substrate and cause salt contamination when clear coating at the end of your project, which could create a white haze.
    
4. Test one door, letting the surface cure for 7 days to see if the problem duplicates itself. If this is silicone contamination, it may be impossible to remove the silicone completely.

If your test does not work, stripping is the only answer. We know this is not what you want to hear, but we hope that this insight will help you to achieve your desired end result.

Future forward, when working with a pre-existing finish with no knowledge of previous wood care, always test a hidden area before proceeding with the entire project.

Watch how to power prep existing high-use finishes for stain or paint like kitchen cabinetry here.

There are several reasons:

1. The cabinets were not prep cleaned and sanded properly. Sanding and cleaning are an essential part of any refinishing process.

In most cases, you can use a 220 sanding pad to scuff the surface and clean with a 50|50 mix of water and denatured alcohol.

Video Tutorial: How to Prep Existing High Use Finishes for Stain or Paint

2. The surface was contaminated with a dusting spray that contained silicone. Silicone is usually impossible to remove.

You can try scrubbing the surface with a strong detergent such as Spic and Span and warm water combination using a gray Scotchbrite pad. After that clean with denatured alcohol full strength. In most cases, you need to strip and sand, but there is no guarantee of success. Test a small area first.

3. The surface was contaminated with a previous wax finish. Wax is also difficult or impossible to remove. Nothing adheres well to wax, and once you use it the wood grain can become contaminated. The wax can penetrate the wood, making future paint or stain finishes or touch-ups difficult or impossible. Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products or mineral spirits, the risk of failure in re-coating over a wax finish is very high.

GF does offer a lovely General Finishes Satin Finishing Wax, but we recommend the use of topcoats such as our water-based General Finishes High Performance or General Finishes Flat Out Flat for a reliable sealant. We promote glaze effects and stains as other means for adding depth to refinished furniture. 

4. The surface was contaminated with an oil based soap.

5. There was not enough dry time in between coats relative to the temperature and humidity. Ideal Conditions are 70 degrees F and 70% humidity. Refinishing furniture in a space that is below or above the 65-75 degrees F range can lead to problems. The colder your space it is, the longer you have to wait between coats. Cold temperatures slow the dry time and affect how quickly the finish will level, harden and cure.

Our easy rule of thumb is; if it is cold enough to wear a sweater it is too cold to apply a water-based finish.

If your current finish is chipping, it is failing to adhere correctly. The adhesion problem could be caused by several reasons:

1. Improper preparation: Cleaning an existing finish removes dirt, grime and many common contaminants such as oil from hands. Dirt, grime, and oil prevent good adhesion causing the possibility of chipping, peeling and flaking - all signs of a failed finish.
2. Contaminants from dusting sprays that contain silicone will also impact the appearance and adherence of a finish - silicone is almost impossible to remove. Oil soaps and wax can also cause adhesion failures.
3. The previous paint was a "chippy style" paint, such as an original casein-based milk paint that does not contain the necessary resins for high durability.

We would not recommend applying any of our products over a failing finish, because the underlying finish will continue to present adhesion problems.

Your only recourse for a good result is to remove the current finish by stripping and sanding.

Watch this video how to power prep high-use finishes like kitchen cabinets for stain or paint.

There is more than one way to remove wax from an existing finish, but none guarantee success. Nothing adheres well to wax and even after cleaning, the wood grain can become contaminated. Wax can penetrate the wood, making future paint or stain finishes or touch-ups difficult or impossible. Sanding down the finish can drive the wax even deeper because the friction of sanding heats up the wax.

Techniques on how to remove wax are listed below. However, the risk of a failure in recoating over a wax finish is high.

1. Scrub with a solvent, such as mineral spirits, to break the wax barrier. Follow with several applications of Acetone applied with gray scotch bright pads to scrub the surface.
2. Mix a solution of equal parts white vinegar and water. Dampen a soft, lint-free cotton cloth with the solution and wipe the surface of the table to break down and remove the wax buildup. Follow the grain of the wood with each stroke. Replace the cloth with a new one as the wax buildup transfers to the cloth to prevent it from being redeposited onto the table. Dry the surface with a clean, dry lint-free cloth after wiping it down to prevent moisture from damaging and staining the wood.
3. Mix a solution of 1 cup of white vinegar and 1 tablespoon of cream of tartar to make a natural abrasive cleaner. Dampen a soft cotton cloth with the solution and gently wipe the wax off in the direction of the wood grain. Rinse the surface by lightly dampening a cloth in plain water and wiping the surface of the wood. Then, wipe dry with a clean dry cloth.

After cleaning, test your new finish to ensure adhesion.

NEVER guarantee a finish applied over wax. Here is a suggestion for your contracts:

We cannot warrant finishes over an existing piece of furniture. If products containing silicone (such as dusting sprays), oil soaps or waxes have been previously used on the piece, they may contaminate a new finish and prevent adhesion. In these situations, it is best to strip and sand the entire piece. Occasionally, a previous wax finish or silicone may be impossible to completely remove.

________ (Initials) I acknowledge that this piece has never been waxed/polished with a silicone-based dusting spray or cleaned with oil soaps. 

________ (Initial) I have no knowledge of previous cleaning products used but realize they may have been applied by previous owners.

Haze (the technical term is blush) is caused by too many coats applied too quickly. A recoat time of 12 hours is not enough dry time when applying over an EXISTING finish. To remove the blush or haze, you can either wipe the area with a strong solvent, like xylene or lacquer thinner, or you can try sanding out the haze and then reapply the topcoat.

Always allow more dry time when applying oil-based products over an existing finish. Here are General Finishes recommended dry times for applying multiple coats of Gel Stain and Gel Topcoat over an existing finish.

• Dry-Time to Touch: 4-6 hours
• Dry-Time to Recoat with Stain When "Wiping Off": 72 hours. Do not recoat until you are sure the stain is dry. If in doubt, wait longer. Humidity or cold temperatures will increase dry times.
• Dry-Time to Recoat with Stain When "Painting On": 72 hours. Do not recoat until you are SURE the stain is dry. If in doubt, wait longer. Humidity or cold temperatures will increase dry times.
• Dry-Time to Apply Oil-Based Topcoat over Gel Stain: 72 hours
• Dry-Time to Apply Water-Based Topcoat: 72 hours
• Dry-Time for Light Use: 7-10 days
• Dry-Time Over Laminate or Other Non-Porous Surfaces: At least 72 hours, likely more. Test to your satisfaction before proceeding.
• CURE TIME: Cure time for all General Finishes oil-based products is about 30 days. During the curing process, protect your flat surfaces and avoid placing heavy items on horizontal surfaces or sliding anything across the surface. 

Dry time and cure time are unrelated. In simplest terms, here is the difference between drying and curing: Drying is the evaporation of solvents in oil-based products, and water in water-based products. Curing is when the product hardens for full use.

Linseed oil stains take a LONG time to dry. When applied too soon, Arm-R-Seal will likely prevent the linseed oil-based stain from gassing out and drying completely due to solvent entrapment, causing a haze.

Most dyes, such as Trans Tint, can only be mixed with alcohol or water, not mineral spirits. A water-based finish, such as Exterior 450, cannot be used in conjunction with mineral spirits, even with an extended dry time. Solvents do not play well with water-based finishes.

Unfortunately, there is no fix for the peeling finish. You will have to sand the project down, apply an exterior stain and recoat with Exterior 450. Also, advise your customer that no finish will withstand the sun indefinitely. All exterior finishes need recoating and maintenance over time.

This problem could be caused by the surface tension of the oak. Surface Tension, sometimes created by sanding, can cause stains to not adhere to the grain of the wood.

You have a few options:

1. Lightly hand-apply the first coat, then spray (without wiping) a second coat.
2. Hand-apply stain the first coat. Then tone the piece by applying a mix of 10-15% stain with topcoat.