Oil-based topcoats are "oxidizing" products which means that the moment it is introduced to oxygen, a chemical reaction will cause the finish to begin to harden. As topcoat is used, the empty space in the can is filled with air, furthering the curing process. 

Tips to ensure your Arm-R-Seal remains in great working condition:

1. Decant the amount of Arm-R-Seal you will need into a foil covered bowl or paper cup and reseal the can right away. Every minute the can is open, the stain is curing.
2. Be sure to thoroughly clean the chime and the lid of the can to assure a tight seal.
3. Add Bloxygen to remove excess oxygen from your can of finish before sealing. 
4. Store your sealed cans upside down.
5. Transfer any unused finish to a smaller container once finished with your project.

Add plastic wrap before sealing? 
We have not tried it, but you get the idea. Anything to prevent contact with air is the key.

No, because the particles can become embedded and rust. Some alternatives are Klingspor Synthetic Wool and Meka Mirlon 1500 synthetic wool.

Steel wool is still an acceptable option for oil-based finishes. GF recommends using "oil-free" 0000 wool from Liberon because it doesn't shred as easy as hardware store brands.

White haze can develop when preparing an existing lacquer finish for re-coating. The haze needs to be removed before applying another finish.

To correct during oil based applications such as Gel Stain, sand lightly with sandpaper or a gray Scotch-Brite pad and then wipe down the surface with mineral spirits. Once the mineral spirits has dried completely, apply Gel Stain.

To correct for water-based applications, just sand lightly or scrub with a gray Scotch-Brite pad and wipe off the dust. Never use mineral spirits when using a water-based finish.

Good catch - never use mineral spirits to prep clean before applying water-based finishes.

You can correct this problem by cleaning again with a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.

Let your project dry 24 hours before applying water-based products.

Although both items are labeled as 220-grit, the pads are softer with a less aggressive scratch pattern. With use, a 220-grit pad will soften very quickly to the equivalent of 400-grit sandpaper - making sued pads ideal for finish sanding between layers of topcoat or prep sanding an EXISTING finish.

220-grit sandpaper is too aggressive for finish sanding but works well for the final round of prep sanding of open-grained raw wood such as Cherry, Pine, Maple, Birch, or Alder.

Pads are our favorite. The pads last a long time, can be rinsed to remove sanding residue and also have the benefit of being flexible, making corners and edges much easier to sand.

Rubbing alcohol is a generic term and is usually manufactured with isopropyl alcohol.

Denatured alcohol contains ethanol and is engineered to discourage recreational human consumption by including additives that are poisonous, bad tasting, bad smelling or nauseating.

A 50/50 mix of either rubbing alcohol and denatured alcohol will work for prep cleaning. Both have good solvents that will remove dirt and grime.

As the Gel Stain is used, the volume of stain in the can is displaced with air, causing the stain to start curing. Gel Stains harden up more quickly than liquid oil stains for all the reasons folks love them - the extra colorants and solids within the stain that provide such great coverage also harden up more quickly than other stains.

During storage, the oxygen or moisture that's sealed in the container continues to cure and thicken your stored product, ruining the leftovers. Here are some tips to ensure your Gel Stain remains in great working condition.

• Decant the amount of stain you'll need into a foil covered bowl and reseal your can right away. Every minute the can is open the stain is curing.
    
• Be sure to REALLY clean the chime and the lid of the can to assure a tight seal.
   
• Use Bloxygen to help remove excess oxygen from your can of finish to help preserve it longer.
   
• Store your sealed cans upside down.
   
• Transfer any unused stain to a smaller container once finished with your project or buy Gel Stain in smaller cans to begin with.
   
• Plastic Wrap??  Haven't tried it, but you get the idea! Anything to prevent contact with air is key. 

Watch Tips on Storing Leftover Wood Finishes here.

There are no guarantees with silicone - it is almost impossible to remove. Unfortunately, silicone contaminants, often from dusting sprays, do not become apparent until a new finish is applied and generally cannot be removed from the surface, only moved around and possibly sealed - a bane of the refinishing industry.

You need to power clean the existing finish and put on some type of barrier coat:

1. Power clean the surface by scrubbing with a strong detergent such as Spic and Span and warm water combination with a gray Scotch-Brite pad. After that, clean with denatured alcohol full strength.
   
   How to Power Prep Existing High Use Finishes for Stain or Paint here.
    
2. Apply 3 coats of dewaxed shellac. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly.
    
3. Then cross your fingers and test, test, test your entire finishing schedule in a small area before proceeding with the entire piece.

In most cases, you will need to strip and sand, but even then there is no guarantee of success. If the silicone has gotten into the wood through cracks in the old finish, you may not be able to get it all removed. 

Protect yourself in custom refinishing contracts with a clause similar to this: 

We cannot warrant finishes over an existing piece of furniture. If products containing silicone (such as dusting sprays), oil soaps or waxes have been previously used on the piece, they may contaminate a new finish and prevent adhesion. In these situations, it is best to strip and sand the entire piece. Occasionally, a previous wax finish or silicone may be impossible to completely remove.

________ (Initials) I acknowledge that this piece has never been waxed/polished with a silicone-based dusting spray or cleaned with oil soaps. 

________ (Initial) I have no knowledge of previous cleaning products used but realize that they may have been applied by previous owners.

This response is true of prepping and existing finish on furniture, but kitchen cabinets are more problematic because they are work areas where grease, steam, food splatters and oil from hands are common. Prep is basically degreasing and abrading the surface for better adhesion. Oil or substances on hands really show up on a failed re-finish around doorknobs and hands if the surface is not cleaned thoroughly.

Because of this, General Finishes believes there is no such thing as a "no prep" paint. We would be leading our customers down the path failure if we touted our products as such. Dirt, grime, oil from hands, wax, dusting sprays that contain silicone, oil soaps or wax prevent good adhesion causing the possibility of chipping, peeling and flaking - all signs of a failed finish. This is the number one reason we see for finish failure. The second is not allowing enough dry time.

The heart of the problem is that we often don't know what was used on the cabinets previously. If dusting sprays that contain silicone have previously been used, the risk of finish failure is high. There are no guarantees with silicone - it is almost impossible to remove. Here are our recommendations. It sounds like a lot of work because it is - charge more.

CLEANING AND PRIMING:

1. Scrub with a degreasing detergent such as Spic and Span or Dawn soap first. Follow with a thorough rinse to remove all the soap.
   
   WATCH this video about cleaning with Dawn detergent.
    
2. Clean with a 50/50 mix of water and denatured alcohol. Let your piece dry thoroughly.
   
   We prefer a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water because it does not contain phosphates, is inexpensive, is readily available and does not require rinsing. You can use commercial furniture cleaners but check the label for phosphates - they will leave a residue behind that requires rinsing.
    
3. Scuff sand with a 320 Grit Klingspor Ultra Flex Sanding PAD (or 400 grit sandpaper) and remove the dust. There are other sanding PADS out there - just make sure the grit is not too aggressive or you man sand down corners and edges down to bare wood.
    
4. Put down a coat of General Finishes Sanding Sealer. GF Sanding Sealer can be used over cleaned and prepped existing finishes that will create a strong barrier with superior adhesion properties. The resin particle is larger so it builds fast, and finish sanding is a breeze.
   
   (Note: We cannot comment on other sanding sealers because several on the market state dry times that are so short that our paint and stains would fail.)
    
5. You can apply Gel Stain over the sanding sealer after 24 hours.
    
6. You can apply paint or water based stain over the sanding sealer after 3 hours.
7. You can apply a white primer over the sanding sealer if you want to color correct for a white paint.

Watch how to power prep high use furniture finishes for stain or paint.

OTHER CLEANING INFO:

• You can use vinegar, bleach or ammonia solutions, but our experience shows they are usually not aggressive enough for kitchen cabinets. We do not recommend using ammonia with water-based finishes as it can cause the finish to blush (turn white).
   
• Never use steel wool with water based products because the particles can become embedded and rust. Some alternatives are Klingspor Synthetic Wool and Merka Mirlon 1500 synthetic wool.
   
• Steel wool is still an acceptable option with oil-based finishes. GF recommends using oil-free 0000 wool from Liberon because it doesn't shred as easily as the hardware store brands.
   
• NEVER USE mineral spirits to prep clean before applying water-based finishes. You can correct this problem by cleaning again with a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water. Let your project dry 24 hours before applying water-based products.

PROTECT YOURSELF
There are two ways to protect yourself:

1. Use a contract and have customers sign off on a warranty. It is extremely exhausting and frightening to be faced with a customer angry over a failed finish. You cannot warrant a finish over unknown substances. Here is a suggestion for your contracts:
   
   We cannot warrant finishes over an existing piece of furniture without knowing the history. If products containing silicone dusting powders, oil soaps or waxes have been previously used on the piece, they may contaminate a new finish and prevent adhesion. In these situations, it is best to strip and sand the entire piece. Occasionally, a previous wax finish or silicone may be impossible to remove.
   
   ______(Initials) I acknowledge that this piece has never been waxed/polished with a silicon-based dusting spray or cleaned with oil soaps.
   
   ______(Initials) I have no knowledge of waxes, silicone-based dusting sprays or oil soap products being used on my cabinets.
    
2. Take the most used drawer or door in the kitchen and test your finish schedule first. And charge for it.

MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) is tricky because there are several grades of MDF and the quality varies.

If you cannot determine the quality of the MDF, play it safe and use best practices. The concern is with the edges and ends. The core of MDF is compressed sawdust, glue and resins so when you apply paint to those areas it soaks right up.

Sand the edges and ends very well with 150-grit sandpaper, then apply a light coat of filler (such as Timbermate water-based wood filler or even joint compound). That will seal the open pores, making it easier to obtain a smooth and consistent finish when painting. The sealing of the ends is even more important than wood because MDF will swell upon contact with moisture.

The front and back of MDF are pressed and sanding during production, but should also be primed with a primer such as Kilz, Bin 123 Primer, or General Finishes Stain Blocker to ensure a better outcome. Then follow with two coats of paint. MDF is not as absorbent as natural wood, so wait 2 days between coats of paint or primer.

Also, MDF also tends to cast a brown color. If you are using a white paint, you can apply a coat of a light gray paint such as General Finishes Seagull Gray Milk Paint first to counter the brown instead of primer, and then apply a few coats of white over it. Let each coat dry 2 days before adding the next.

As always, we recommend that you test your procedure on a hidden area of your project to ensure the product adheres well and desired color.

1. Spray your project inside and out with Ozuim Sanitizer.
2. Place a box or bowl of charcoal briquettes inside your project.
3. Cover your entire project with plastic and let it sit for 24 hours.
4. Clean your project with a Scotch-Brite pad and a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.
5. Sand the surface with a 150-grit or 180-grit sanding pad. We recommend Softback Sanding Sponges.
6. If there is still a bit of lingering odor, a coat of shellac may help.

Possibly - it will depend on the quality of the stripping and sanding.

If done correctly, and all of the existing finish is removed, the stain will penetrate the same as on raw wood.

If the sanding and stripping are incomplete, the grain and pores of the surface are sealed more, and will not accept stain as easily. More stain may be needed to accomplish the same color as on original raw wood, and longer dry times will be required, especially for thick stains, such as General Finishes Gel Stain.

Yes, but it will evaporate much more quickly so you will need to re-wet the discharge pad more frequently.

Watch how to update existing finishes using a dry brush technique at this video here.

Good catch -  never use mineral spirits to prep clean before applying water-based finishes.

You can correct this problem by cleaning again with a 50:50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.

Let your project dry 24 hours before applying water-based products.

The most critical part of finishing a piece of furniture happens before you open a can of stain or paint - it starts with the sanding. Sanding is critical to creating a smooth surface.

Use the following sanding sequences for new wood:

PAINT

For wood that is going to be painted, use 120-grit, followed by 150-grit. 

WATER-BASED STAINS

For closed-grain woods (such as Cherry, Pine, Maple, Birch or Alder) that will be stained with water-based products use 150-grit followed by 180-grit. 

For open-grain woods (such as Oak, Ash, Mahogany, Parawood) that will be stained with water-based products use 180-grit followed by 220-grit.

CLEAR-COATED WITH WATER-BASED PRODUCTS

For wood that will be clear-coated with a water-based topcoat, use 120-grit, followed by 150 or 220-grit. 

OIL-BASED STAINS

For wood that will be STAINED with an oil-based product use 120-grit, followed by 150-grit. 

CLEAR-COATED WITH OIL-BASED PRODUCTS

For wood that will be clear-coated with an oil-based topcoat, sand up to 150-grit.

Do not over sand with the final grits. You will create a surface that is so smooth it will not accept a finish.

Instructional Video: How to Prep Sand New or Raw Wood

Ideal Conditions are 70 degrees F and 50-70% humidity.

Refinishing furniture in a space that is below or above the 65-75 degrees F range can lead to problems, and a space below 55 degrees F is definitely too cold.

WATER-BASED TOPCOATS

One issue caused by cold temperatures with water-based topcoats is the development of dimples in the finish called Orange Peel.

The colder your space it is, the longer you have to wait between coats. Cold temperatures slow the dry time and affect how quickly the finish will level, harden and cure. Our easy rule of thumb is; if it is cold enough to wear a sweater it is too cold to apply a water-based finish.

If you must apply WATER BASED TOP COATS in cool conditions, add General Finishes Accelerator to speed water evaporation from the finish. Make sure the finish and the surface of the place you are working on are at room temperature. You can warm up the finish by placing the can in hot water for 5 minutes beforehand, and if possible, move the piece back into warmer temperature after applying finishes for the 7 days of cure time.

OIL-BASED FINISHES

Oil-based finishes are not as affected by cooler temperatures, but lower temps will still slow the oxidation of the finish. GF again suggests moving the piece back into warmer temperature after applying finishes for the 7 days of cure time.

You can apply oil-based finishes in as low as 60 degrees if necessary.

WARNING: Applying OIL BASED finishes near an open flame or combustible heater is VERY DANGEROUS. The mineral spirit mixes with fumes from kerosene, for example, creating an unsafe environment.

Conversely, if you are working in HOT, DRY climates any WATER BASE finish will dry faster. General Finishes Extender can be added to water based products to increase dry time in those situations.

Ideal temperature to store product: 65-75 degrees F. Garages are not a good place to store any finish.

NOTE: We have been asked whether it is OK to paint in a 50 degrees F shop if the paint is stored at a safe temperature beforehand, and the finished piece is moved into a room with a safe temperature to dry. This approach might work, but it's risky.

See video tutorial: Tips on Storing Leftover Finishes

LIFE OF PRODUCT
Water-based products do not last forever, even when unopened. General Finishes products are best used within 1 year of the manufacture date listed on the bottom of the can. The life of the product may be extended with proper care and storage.

SETTLING
Gravity can cause some solids to settle on the bottom of the can and slight separation on the top. This is normal. If working with older paint, use paint mixing attachment on a drill. If the solids dissolve and clumps smooth out after mixing from the bottom, the product is in good condition for use.

STORAGE TIPS
See video tutorial: Tips on Storing Leftover Finishes
Water-based finishes crystalize and form a skin due to evaporation when the air-tight seal on a can is broken at first use. The following best practices will increase the life of your product:

1. Pry open sealed lid(s) with a paint can opener by hooking under the lid's rolled edge. The use of a screwdriver can disfigure the rim and lid, impairing a complete seal. 
2. Keep lid(s) closed while working. Pour what you will use into a bowl, paper cup, or plate, and close can lid as you work.
3. Clean the chime of the can(s) thoroughly with a paper towel before closing to create a complete seal. Paint in the chime can be minimized by using a pouring lid, such as Fitsall. Avoid wiping used brushes on the lid.
4. Pound the lid(s) in place using a rubber mallet to avoid distorting the chime or lid. Dents in the lid from direct contact with a hammer can impair a complete seal. Alternatively, place a flat piece of wood over can lid and firmly pound shut.
5. Store in moderate temperatures. Avoid temperatures below 50*F/10*C or above 80*F/26*C. Frozen and heat-damaged product cannot be revitalized. Temperature-controlled spaces, such as a basement, are ideal for storage. Do not store product in an attic, garage, in direct sunlight, or next to something warm like a water heater or furnace.
6. Store the can(s) upside down to create a liquid seal, minimize evaporation and reduce the chance of crystallization. Decant remaining product from the can before stirring. 
7. Decant leftovers to a smaller container when the finish is almost used up. Alternative storage containers for water-based products are plastic FIFO bottles or glass bottles. Do not fill metal-lidded containers completely to prevent them from rusting.

The following water-based product mixtures can be stored:

1. Product thinned with up to 15% General Finishes Extender or General Finishes Accelerator can be stored, with the exception of thinned General Finishes Water Based Wood Stain.
2. Mixtures involving colors & sheens within the same product line, such as:
   • High Performance Satin + High Performance Gloss
   • Snow White Milk Paint + Coastal Blue Milk Paint
   • Amber Dye Stain + Merlot Dye Stain

The following product mixtures should NOT be stored:

• Any water based product with thinned tap water; water often contains bacteria that will adversely affect stored paint.
• Topcoat + Stain or Paint
• Milk Paint + Chalk Style Paint
• Water Based Wood Stain + Dye Stain

Although some companies promote their products as "no prep", that is nonsense. if you skip this step the finish can fail.

General Finishes standard for a good finish is it must adhere well and stand the test of time. 

1. PREP CLEANING:

Cleaning an existing finish removes dirt, grime and many common contaminants such as oil from hands. Dirt, grime, and oil prevent good adhesion causing the possibility of chipping, peeling and flaking - all signs of a failed finish.

We prefer a 50|50 mix of denatured alcohol and water because it does not contain phosphates, is inexpensive, readily available and does not require rinsing.

You can also use ammonia as a cleaner when using oil-based finishes. We do not recommend using ammonia with water-based finishes as it can cause the finish to blush (turn white).

50|50 water|bleach or 50|50 water vinegar solutions can be used as well - be sure to rinse with a warm, wet cloth and let the project dry.

In cases where the project has a lot of buildup, we recommend scrubbing with a detergent such as Spic and Span first, followed by a rinse, and then by the 50|50 mix of water and alcohol. Let your piece dry thoroughly.

You can use commercial furniture cleaners such as TSP but check the label for phosphates - they will leave a residue behind that requires rinsing.

2. PREP SANDING:

The most critical part of finishing a piece of furniture happens before you open a can of stain or paint - it starts with the sanding. Prep sanding an existing finish further cleans the surface, removing built-up dirt, grime, and oil from hands.

Prep sand an existing finish with a 220 sanding pad.

3. BE CAUTION OF CONTAMINANTS

Contaminants from dusting sprays that contain silicone will also impact the appearance and adherence of a finish - silicone is almost impossible to remove. Oil soaps and wax can also cause adhesion failures.

Citrus strippers such as CitriStrip have a wax in them to keep the product from drying out after it's applied to the surface. Mineral spirits is recommended after the stripping solution because it's important to break down those waxes before getting started. However, mineral spirits is not compatible with water-based products.

On projects where a water-based product will be used, we recommend cleaning with Acetone which evaporates quickly and removes any residue. After using Acetone, wash with the 50:50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.

If you have already cleaned with mineral spirits, we recommend that you clean the surface with a 50:50 mix of denatured alcohol and water before applying the water-based product. 

You can use oxalic acid when trying to remove discoloration or water damaged spots. The entire surface needs to be treated and then neutralized with a clean water wash. Wipe the surface down with clean water and allow to dry completely.

Lastly, finish sand with the appropriate grit paper:

• Oil-based products: 150-grit
• Water-based products: 220-grit

It’s not a bleach but it will brighten the wood back to its original color.